Friday, January 30, 2009

Beach Trek - Honnavara to Gokarna : 13-14 Dec 2008

On completion of my Kumara parvatha trek on 29-30th 2008, i wanted to do a Beach Trek very badly.. i thought it would be good to Trek on a Full Moon Day. So the dates were fixed as 13-14 December 2008.

I started browsing for some good Beach Trek spots in Karnataka..
The most popular one was Gokarna to Honnavara trek. I consulted my ISRO-TREK team members ..Darukesh and Manu who suggested me two good route's
1> Karwar to Gokarna Beach Trek
2> Honnavara to Gokarna Beach Trek
I and my friend Abhiram chose the latter one as there was enough information in the form of Blogs for the Gokarna to Honnavara Trek (exact ulta path).
The usual season for a beach trek in the above two spots is between November-January.

So a trek team was formed.. we were 7 of us : Abhiram, Girish, Santosh, Karthik, Vishnu(myself), Bhatta, Madhukar.
Madhukar actually traveled from Pune and joined us at Honnavara .. 5 of us left Bangalore at 930PM by a Rajahamsa Bus and reached Honnavara next day morning at 930AM ..solid 12 hours.. Bhatta had already reached there at 830AM. We refreshed ourselves at a Lodge and had our breakfast in the Hotel Nearby.
Our plan was to start the trek at Haldipur ..a sleepy fishing village 6km North of Honnavara on National Highway 17. We got into a mini Van at 1045 AM which dropped us at Haldipur Junction (for 3 Rs/- per head) which comes immediately after 'Keregadhdhe Krishnashrama'.
We proceeded towards the haldipur beach, which was about 2km walk from the main road.
There was road till the beach and beside the roads were paddy fields..which had a few migratory birds.. Girish got triggered and Out came his Nikon D90 (D-SLR) ..click click click..
We had to cross a bridge which was built to ferry travelers across a wide stream of water canal!
We reached the Haldipur Beach at 11AM.. the beach was a clean stretch of Sand .. It was a hot Afternoon! We saw 2-3 eagles flying over our heads. Seeing it, Abhiram quipped 'the eagles are expecting us to faint and die coz of sunstroke .. i think even eagles know that it not right to trek @ Noon under the hot sun' ..we all laughed at his joke and started the trek!
The beach was clean. There was an Island majestically poised, surrounded by the seawater and was about 100-200 m from the shore. It was tempting to swim across to the Island like Swami Vivekananda did at Kanyakumari.. only difference was that he knew swimming & i did not and he had the guts to do it and i didnot have those :) [maybe in future i will..]
We had to cross 2 hills northwards from the starting point to go to the Dareshwara beach stretch. We started slowly, but steadily on the Haldipur beach towards our first obstacle which looked like an easy climb. As we started moving towards the first hill, we saw lots and lots of crabs, moving here and there. The beach looked deserted but for 2-3 boats lying abandoned on the shore. We took almost 45 min to reach the base of the first hill.
I and Bhatta went and explored the path to cross the hillock which looked a bit slippery. Meanwhile Santosh spotted a Snake behind the rocks on which he wanted to sit..and he called out "Russels Viper" loudly.. i then started feeling uneasy to explore the hillock for a path ..i wondered 'who knows what lays beneath the shrubs and rocks!'

He was able to take a snap of the snake somehow.. it was a bit blurred and we could make out the outline of the snake's body in the picture.

After carefully crossing the hillock laden with bushes and rocks..we came to a 300-400m long beach, we saw a Coconut farm beside it. It looked inhabited
We went inside the farm, and the kind landlady there gave us water, we filled our water bottles. Unfortunately the workers in the farm were not there else we would have got a nice treat of Coconut milk (for a small price, of course). We rested there for about 15-20 minutes. It was 1230pm by then.
We proceeded towards the next hillock , and climbing this one seemed easier than the previous one. So we started..only to realize that the path had lots and lots of ridges/rocks along the path.
Carefully we crossed the ridges and we came down to a small clearing where we rested. Santosh was feeling De-Hydrated, so we rested for 30 minutes under the shade of the huge rocks.
30 minutes were filled with silence.. by listening to the waves crashing on the rocks around us.. it was a much needed relaxation and a relief under the hot sun ...beside the beautiful Arabian Sea!
We resumed our trek uphill .. From the top we could see the whole stretch of Dareshwara Beach. We had to get down, and there was some sort of construction going on the hill. There were some workers, we took directions from them to get down the hill.. There were man-made steps to get down. We got down to the beach ..
It was a splendid stretch of about 3 miles or almost 5 km. After walking for about half a km we met some fishermen there.. it was already 215pm and we were famished. So we took directions from them to go to Kumta and moved towards National Highway-17. We had Soda in a Tea Shop.
We caught a bus and went to Kumta Bus Stand at around 3pm and had a nice tasty lunch at a Vegetarian Hotel for Rs 20/- per plate. Then we bought some Appy fruit Juice and took 2 Auto's for Kumta Beach @ 40 Rs each.

It was 445pm when we landed on Kumta Beach. Had we not taken a deviation at the entrance of Dareshwara Beach, we would have had to walk about 5km and cross a small stream of water to reach the point where we were presently about to resume the trek!

There were lots of Rocks laid along the beach.. i guess it must have been to prevent sea waves during new moon/full moon days. It was a very shallow beach..so migratory birds were present looking for fish and crabs to feast on!
We had to cross two more hills.
We climbed up a hill ..as i turned back to check whether all of us were there..i saw Girish still in Kumta beach..coming slowly.. i gestured him to come fast as i wanted to view sunset peacefully from a good viewpoint ! ..he came up to me.. i asked him why he was late and he must be fast..he merely smiled and showed me the photo he had captured of the birds and its reflections.. my jaws dropped! Bird and its reflection were taken superbly by him in his D-SLR! i have added only 2 of those here. Each of these birds were at least 15-20 m far off and were moving ..
We saw a ruined building.. and a thought came as to whether we must camp here itself..as it was geting dark fast! We decided against it as we had at least 30-40 minutes before the sunset.
So from atop the hilll where we were expecting to view the sunset..we got down to a fishing community and walked past (actually we almost RAN) the 500m long beach where we saw
many kids and youth playing cricket. As we were running along the beach, the sea water was occasionally wetting my hunter shoes.. it was as if the Sea was telling me to look at the western horizon.. at that instant i saw the horizon and there it was.. the beautiful Sunset.. We watched the sun set over the west for close to 15 minutes.. It seemed to me that Beautiful Sunset symbolizes the satisfaction that a man gets after a hard day's work!
We clambered on to the top of the hill. We thought of camping on the hill itself, however Karthik was feeling a bit un-easy camping there as he had seen many people around the beach..he was of the opinion that it was not safe here.. so the team decided that we shall camp on the base of the next hill and we rushed forward.
Myself and Girish searched for a way and it was getting dark. We had to make way into a series of Bushes ..it was totally dark we moved with our torches. I was in the front ..and it was a bit steep and filled with lots of dense bushes ..i was feeling a bit un-easy as the thoughts of encountering the snake kept cropping up in my mind.. after 15 minutes we came to a clearing..we could see a 200-300m long .. silent and quiet beach.. the decision to camp here was UNANIMOUS!!
The small stretch of Beach was between 2 rocky shored hills, i was wondering whether the gap between the 2 hills was formed millions of years ago so that Our team could camp here on 13-Dec-2009 AD! .. It was a perfect spot! , there was a farm beside it as well! We made sure our camping area would be as far as possible from the High Tide as it was a Full Moon Night.
We set up one tent Bhatta and karthik decided to sleep inside..rest all slept out.

After resting for 1 hour, we saw the 'Full Moon' Rise at about 730-8 pm. I and Abhiram then decided we shall explore the path on the next hill for next day morning's moonlight trek. So we both trekked in Total Darkness with our torch lights as the hill itself was blocking the moon light completely. We trekked in a path that was originally present and the waves were crashing on the rocks below the ridges. Slowly and steadily we walked..and lo and behold we reached the other side of the hill in merely 20 minutes. We were relieved!!!

We came back and informed our buddies that a path is present. Then we had our rotis, with pickle and chatni pudi. Bhatta,Madhu,Girish, Abhi and Santu got a good idea..they set up a campfire using firewood ,dried cocunut and dry grass and made a hot mixture or chow chow of the following ingredients: Water, Dates, GoodDay Biscuits, 5 Star, KitKat, Cashews, Dry Grapes. Believe me..it tasted superb!!
We chatted for about 30-40 minutes. Madhukar was at his usual best, cracking jokes. Karthik was meanwhile snoring in the tent!
Finally we decided to call it a day . I laid down to sleep.

I saw a flying Meteor in the night sky filled with stars and constellations. I saw one Low Earth Orbit Polar satellite/Remote Sensing satellite... i could obviously not recognize which one it was (though initially i wrongly assumed that it was ISS).. then i saw Venus shining brightly.. there was total silence in the beach but for the waves crashing silently .. it was a pleasent experience.. i turned to see the moon which was shining brightly in the east! Girish took a photo of the moon in his D-SLR using a tripod! .. we did not feel like taking our eyes away from the moon!
I zipped up in my sleeping bag.. and laid down on my foam sheet .. i then closed my eyes .. and was feeling like sitting on the moon watching chandrayaan going around us.. and i woke up ..it was 4AM in the morning.. moon was visible over us .. slightly towards the west! ...There was a bit of morning breeze. We had a very good sleep no doubt.. i did some warm up exercises

We started at 5 AM sharp and crossed the hill to our left.. we landed up in the longest beach we had seen till now in our trek. It was about 7-8km long i guess. We saw another hill at the north which we had to cross to view the Agnashini River meeting the Sea. Once we cross Agnashini river by boat, we would have to trek another 1km to get Half moon and paradise beach. This was Our plan. We started walking slowly but steadily.

There were some houses in between, and lots of fishermen were staying there. They were surprised by seeing us, i too was surprised why anyone would be awake by 5 AM. Only then i realized that they were awake for their nature calls.. And for about a 2km stretch there were people answering their nature calls.. we moved a bit away from the beach water and started walking more towards the sandy shore, as we did not want to offend their privacy. I was wondering whether this was in any way the longest loo in the world barring indian railway tracks..

Of course even we had to go for our respective nature calls, behind bushes :) on the sandy shore .. water was available in plenty ..thanks to Arabian Sea!
After about 3 km walk Our legs were aching a bit, we rested on some huge rocks. The moon was shining brightly towards the west direction... For a second i thought whether it was a cloudy day with sun shining dimly! A jet plane's trail was visible in the sky.. we saw some flying meteors on the clear sky.. Slowly the dawn light was emerging .. the hill we crossed an hour ago was looking small..
After another 2 km walk we could sense that the Sun rose.. we could not see it. There were lots and lots of birds .. giving their morning calls.. Sea gulls were in plenty. The photo below is of a bird which was found hopping in groups .. i could not recognize its name..pls do let me know if you know about it.
Then on proceeding towards the huge hill we met 2 guys jogging in their track suits. They stopped us right there and asked where we were from. They introduced themselves as Coastal Gaurd police, we showed our ID cards and moved ahead.

We reached a fishing village, where we filled our water bottles. The villagers were anxious to know where we were from, because we were strangers and alien to them. They were anxious due to the recent Terror Attacks in Bombay on 26/11/2008, where the terrorists had used Arabian Sea as a gate way!

After befriending them, One of the villager pointed to me and jokingly said that they doubted us mainly because i was looking like a terrorist coz of my long unkept hair and Dark Glasses!
We took directions from them and Started climbing up the huge hill, it was very very slippery. Loose Gravel made sure that we slipped frequently.
After a realy tiring climb, we reached the top which was full of dried grass. We turned back to see the 8km path fully visible..
Ahead We saw the AGNASHINI RIVER MEETING HER PARTNER..The SEA!! It was an amazing sight, we could see lots of Boats coming from Tathadi and Gokarna going towards OM/Paradise beaches. There were some lone boats fishing in the sea. Lots of birds, - Sea gulls,Eagles were to be seen in the clear Blue Sky with Blue Sea below.
We rested here for about an Hour or so. We took lots of Photos! We had some snacks. We were a bit hungry. We slept for about 30 minutes as well.We then wanted to go to the base of the hill to catch a boat to Tatdi. We proceeded and there were only grass everywhere so we had to find a path. I got pricked by a sharp thorn ..which pierced my leg going through even my boots.. The path was tricky and occasionally we got lost. We met a localite who directed us to the boats on the hill base
We got to the base of the hill. The river was gently splashing its water on the shore.. I tasted the water to re-affirm its saltiness.. We directly went to Boating colony, the boatsmen charged us Rs 3/- per head for a trip to Tatdi.
There was a pungent smell of fish in Tatdi port. Santosh showed me a blue coloured Jelly fish..
We then had Lime Soda in a hotel nearby. Instead of proceeding towards Half moon beach we thought it would be better to have lunch at Gokarna and return here. We caught a bus to Gokarna, took a single room in a lodge near the Bus stand, had lunch in a hotel nearby. There were lots of foreigners, roaming in the streets of Gokarna. I was wondering if Gokarna was famous for its Shiva temple.. coz the ambience of a religious place was absent

Madhukar had to leave for his hometown Mangalore, We bid him farewell and he left for the railway station at 3 pm.

We took bath, and proceeded to OM beach. Auto fare was Rs 100/- per auto to and fro OM beach was looking beautiful, its name derives from its Shape like the Letter OM in Sanskrit.
There were lots of Bikini clad foreigners .. i was wondering whether this was India..becasuse i saw Bikini clad women for the first time (had seen them only in movies!)
We had some roadside Bhel-puri and a nice cup of tea in the Beach hotel.
Bhatta, Girish and Abhiram decided to chill out in the OM beach. They had lots of fun there.

Myself,Santosh and Karthik wanted to see the Half Moon and Paradise beach. We trekked up a small hill beside the OM beach. I saw some syringes fallen here and there..

En-route we saw a lonely tree standing on a hillock behind which we could see the Sea extending to eternity..we halted there for 20 minutes. We could see the Half Moon beach and Paradise beach from this point!
Half Moon Beach and Paradise beach was looking beautiful..we could see Agnashini River meeting the Sea, there were some ferry boats as well in the Sea. All in all the scenary was pleasing!
Actually coming back to OM beach was a bit tricky as there was a point where we had to cross a steep region along the corner where there was direct drop of about 20-30 m into rocks, where the sea was crashing it in the form of waves.
We clambered downhill carefully back into the OM beach.. We missed Madhukar.
Meanwhile the other three had enjoyed the beach waters in their own way.
We got back into our Auto's and for Gokarna. We packed off from the lodge. Bhatta did not have a return ticket, and he was able to get one in our bus itself.
The Non AC Sleeper bus left for Bangalore at 7pm.. we endured a bumpy journey in near Shimoga, where roads were very bad. We befriended 2 Americans in our bus, asked them lots of questions about Obama,Bush, McCain etc..

I slept tight .. dreaming about the whole Trek . Morning i woke up at 645, We reached Bangalore at 7 AM.

On my way to my house in BMTC bus number 61A ... i recalled the sunset that we witnessed day before yesterday.. it was fresh in my mind
I said to myself.. I will back to Gokarna Once again.. from KARWAR though!!

Monday, January 26, 2009

Kumaraparvatha Trek 29-30th November 2008

We made our first attempt to conquer the Pushpagiri popularly called as Kumara Parvatha or KP in short on Feb 22-23rd 2008. We had to abort the trek as 2 of our friends fell sick. So there was a kind of empty space in my heart.. which needed to be filled up with the sense of conquering the most popular trekking spot in Karnataka.

Again.. November 3 rd week..Abhijith popularly called as Bhatta called me up and said "how about a Trek to Kumar Parvatha on a NEW MOON day.. it will be pitch dark at night ..my friends are planning for it will you join?" I was a bit apprehensive as it was raining cats and dogs in Bangalore. Finally i made up my mind and said yes..
So a team of 9 was formed.. Bhatta, Ashwath, Prithvi, Sarath, Pradeep(Model), Manu, Manish, Prakash and Vishnu(Myself) (my friend Vijay Bhaskar dropped out at last minute for personal reasons)


Nov 28th we got into a Rajahamsa bus at 945 pm which dropped us at Kukke Subramanya at 5 AM in the morning. We finished the toilets at the bus stand latrines, and had our breakfast at Neo Mysore Cafe hotel. Some of my friends went for Morning Darshan @ kukke temple, i personally would not recommend a temple darshan in the morning coz then you would not have time to Trek to the Top of KP in a single day. Ideal Time to Star the trek would be 6:30 AM- 7AM. We packed some idlies to save time at Bhattru mane which is halfway b/w kukke and KP. We started the trek a bit late at 8:45 AM... It was fortunately a Sunny Day.. No sign of Rainy clouds ..


Just beside the temple there is a road that leads to the base of KP trek start point. On walking about a km..we get a Board displaying the trek details of the KP.


We started the trek at a normal speed uphill.. There were lotsa leeches on the way. To prevent it we usually dip our Socks in water mixed with Nashya pudi or Snuff Powder, and then we dry it for 2 days before wearing it. And we insert the ends of our pants into the socks and tie the lace hard around the hunter shoes and our socks as well. That will prevent any leech entering the confines of your pant :) (Manu's Idea!)

3 km uphill after about 2.5 hours we got to this place called Bheemana Kallu where if you explore a bit to the right side of the stone you will find a stream of water..where you can fill up your water bottles. If you have time take bath there as well..


but i would recommend not to take bath to save time. This point is more or less the halfway mark to the Bhattru Mane. Now on the way a funny thing happened ..our friend Manish was feeling very thirsty, so he dipped his hand into his friends bag and found a COLA bottle..thinking it to be PEPSI/COKE he took a gulp only to realize that it was KEROSENE.. he spat it out and was looking very very very tense!! as though he might die..we had a good laugh..


Again we started proceeding to Bhattru Mane..slowly now the forest cover gave away to grassland which was getting more and more ...which further started dwindling to become dry lands with Grass here and there...that is when you will get the feel of "Sun Stroke" it was almost 12 by now.

This is where i guess we could avoid the Noon Heat by starting the trek very Early by say 7 AM.

We entered a very flat area..where we could see the Bhattru mane Thota! .. from here Bhaththadharaashi and sheshaparvatha looks really majestic!!


We reached Bhattru Mane by around 1245PM and we ate the packed Idlies for our lunch in Bhattru's house @ Girigadhdhe.

Mr Narayan Bhat is a simple man, who provides shelter, food at nominal rates for trekkers.

Bhatta had bought lotsa fruit juices..which we had to our hearts content(Though it was not necessary)

Then we made a mistake of starting the trek immediately after lunch..not giving sufficient time for digestion..we started the trek again at 1:45..after paying the forest check post a fee of Rs 115/- per head, we proceeded towards the Mantapa which would be our next water point.

At the base of the Baththadharaasi hill myself,Bhatta and Ashwath got the dizziness that we never had got before ... we 3 had reached Bhattrumane 30 minutes later than others so we needed rest..so we dumped our bags on ground and fell asleep for 40 minutes right under the hot sun till 3 PM.


After a sufficient rest and another 30 min trek to Mantapa (a stone made shelter)..where we filled our water bottles. We took rest till 4 and decided that we shall trek as far as possible until sunset.. by 430PM at the base of Sheshaparvatha we had to experience a heavy Downpour of Rainfall..it was like buckets and buckets of water pouring onto you continuously.


It was raining heavily on Sheshaparvatha and Bhaththadharaashi..however the Bhattru Mane and Kukke which could be seen from the place where we camped did not have any rainfall..it was sunny there as it lies in the Rain-Shadow area.


Then the rain stopped briefly..we camped at that place itself and pitched up the 2 tents we had.
At 630 PM sunset ..we decided to call it a day and went inside our tents..had our chapathis and Chatni pudi ,Jam. It started raining by 7pm.


Myself, Sarath,Model,Prakash and manish slept in one tent. Bhatta,Ashwath and Prakash in the other. Manu who was very much used to sleeping out in the wild..slept between the 2 tents. Then by around 8pm..there were heavy winds..that threatened to throw our tents over the cliff where we had camped. We made the mistake of camping between the valley of 2 mountains Baththadharaasi and Sheshaparvatha.


Then came the worst of all .. THUNDERSTORM AND LIGHTNING!!! we were all hoping that we will survive the night..we were soaked in water ..our sleeping bags were wet..worst of all was the cold wind!

Meantime Manu got inside bhatta's tent which was not pitched properly, the only thing that prevented the tent from flying away was Ashwath sleeping at the center of the tent!


After a Nightmarish sleep ..morning however turned out to be a pleasent one..so with our tube sheets and little chocolates we left all out trekking bags in the tents and we proceeded towards sheshaparvatha.


View from Sheshgiri was beautiful..from the cliff top ... Manu showed us the BISLE Ghat on one end and Kumaradhara river valley on the other... and he was able to identify Doddakal Betta and Kagineri Plateau at the North!!


KP was fully covered with clouds so we could not see the top..


From Sheshagiri we had to enter a forest downhill ..and there was a flat land where we had to trek for about 25 minutes untill we reach the base of Kumara Parvatha. There is a very small Stream at the base..which is the last water source.


Last hurdle to climb the gigantic KP is a 15-20m tall 70 degree inclined rock.. we held the bushes around the rock and clambered up..and we crossed a foliage of short trees..
Finally we saw a marking showing us direction to the top..

we reached a arranged stone wall which houses a sacred Shiva Linga . At once we realized we had reached the summit.
What A Feeling!!!!! Ours hearts were fully satisfied..especially after that terrible night!!it would have been greater to reach there in the first day itself...we made it anyways! We were very happy..and enjoyed every moment of the hour we spent at the top.
We rested there took some photo's.

We then met 3 trekkers from Bangalore who had come from Somwarpet side..
They were literally scared to the limits..coz of the heavy downpour on the previous night! where they had to camp on a SLOPE as they did not get any flat land! coz of which the downpour made their tents shift downwards..scaring the daylights out of them. Also they had run out of food..and were wondering whether they will back back alive.. And they had sighted few snakes as well...

They had some very good photographs of one cobra in their Cannon D-SLR. Below is one of the photo taken by them..we were dumbstruck after seeing it!

They had heavy tents ..so we helped them till our base camp.


At 945 AM We decided to get back to the camp..as we had not yet had our breakfast. We stopped by sheshaparvatha took some nice snaps. KP was looking just awesome..with clouds in its background. It was a breathtaking view of KP with Sheshagiri top.

Then we made to our tents and packed it off. We had lots of chapathis.. which we shared with 3 trekkers. By 1030AM we started towards Bhattru mane in Girigadhdhe. We reached there by 1215-1230PM. Lunch was ready by 1. We had lunch and rested till about 230PM.

We refilled our water bottles.. we trekked downhill for about 3 hours fighting mosquitoes and leeches. And reached Kukke by about 645pm just before it became pitch dark!

I enjoyed every moment of the serene forest ..

When i used to see the sky..the clouds were forming patterns which seemed to represent calmness !!


Back in kukke at 7pm..Manu sarath and others took bath in Kumaradhara river.. myself Bhatta took bath in a lodge nearby..

Had a heavy dinner and left for bus stand.

All of us were quite relieved ..that we conquered KP..

Last but not least.. i was happy a lot trekking with my buddies.. so i must mention a few words about them as well

Bhatta: One of my best buddies since 4th std..working in ASM Technologies..

Ashwath,Model, Sarath,Prakash were working in Oracle.. i got to know them through Bhatta.. All of them were fully filled with enthu and jokes....

Manish: the kerosene drunkard :) :) was our trek Garbage collector ..did a fabulous job at cleaning our mess and saving mother nature..

Prithvi and Sarath were nature loving buddies..

Manu pasha was my ISRO Trek club member and colleague .. incidently he was my senior in Engineeering college too..

We all decided unanimously that we shall trek as a group in future too...considering that OUR FIRST TREK AS A TEAM was a SUCCESS..

with this mood we all boarded the buses

Manu went in a different bus .. rest of us went in another Rajahamsa at 9PM. We chatted in the bus for 15 minutes..

Just after the bus entered Sakleshpur Ghat section, it took a big turn to the left..i instantly fell asleep and dreamt of walking towards the KP ... it was surrounded by Red orange skies created by the morning sun! I was enjoying the serene environment between KP and Sheshagiri.. suddenly i fell down from sheshagiri's cliff .... only to realize that i had jerked from my seat forward ... when the Rajahamsa bus driver applied brakes near Bangalore at 530AM.

Love you a lot KP!!